We started day 4 with a few very specific goals in mind. After a few days of getting in the flow of things, we had a better view of time constraints, energy drains and what it all would boil down to. Kyoto still had a transportation limit, even though we were going to some pretty famous spots, buses were the best way to get to them and still they were still a bit puzzling to us. Most require some level of kanji skills or carefully matching up destinations with the buses (some are the same loop, so same kanji, but some head West when others go East). We ended up circling around Kyoto Station for a few minutes before hopping on a bus to our first destination (correctly!)
Kinkaku-ji was a site we visited the first time around, I knew Terra would enjoy the location and made it a must for the return trip. It only takes about 30 minutes to walk around the loop that includes various angles of Kinkaku-ju itself, some koi ponds and various wishing stones, it was obvious to get this out of the way early.There were groups of courteous school tours, most including high school girls screaming “kawaii” at Terra (presumably at her fashion/plushie sense), it was relaxing to just walk around and take in the essence of Japan. Near the exit, we stop for a quick meat bun/snack and plan on how the heck we should make our way to Toei Studio Park next.
Well, as it turned out, even the best laid plans can lead to ruin. We got into one of our only arguments of the trip, all because of buses. One bus was labeled with the correct kanji, but heading the opposite direction (remember that warning earlier?), so off the wrong bus, on to another wrong bus and eventually a short walk a few bus stops up to get on the CORRECT bus. Oh, I hate buses so much, but sadly the train stations will not get you from Kinkaku-ji to Toei and a taxi would have cost far too much at 15-20KM away. We were finally able to confirm the correct destination and arrived at Toei Studio park approaching 11:30AM. I was surprised to see just how little people there were, even though I planned it that way by going in the middle of a non-holiday weekday afternoon, there was seriously nobody inside. With it obviously set up to accommodate huge crowds in a theme park setting, it was almost unnerving. We explore the inside attractions first, but as we opted for the restricted ticket and to purchase events and attractions separately we ended up only going into the ninja obstacle course. It was fun and we all went through it, taking a grand total of 15 minutes or so.
A lot of attractions were under construction, but they still had Precure statues, Ultraman replicas, Power Rangers costumes and a small shop inside. Deciding to grab lunch at their cafe before heading outside to the studio/working movie lot was a great decision. I got some Curry Katsu, and we treated Terra to some Unagi, not the cheapest or tastiest meal of the trip, but it was still good and filled us until dinner. It was a strange little cafe with slow service and only three other customers, but I would recommend it if you are already touring the place.
Heading outside next, we check out the really cool movie quality props and sets. You are free to wander around the entire lot, taking pictures and peaking inside any places that are not roped off for filming. There were several “locations” with timed sign boards. As we later decipher, they are movie props of some sort that are automated to go off during those times (I might post these videos elsewhere later). We get to see a Nessie-like creature emerge from a pool (as seen to the left) and a crazy old Mountain come to life and do a quick song and dance. It was a very strange, very Japanese place indeed. On our way out, we got to take in part of a Samurai period drama shoot, which was pretty cool. Terra was getting bored and tired at this point, and it started to rain, so we decided to head back to the apartment for a break, knowing it was going to be one of our latest nights.
Grabbing a limited edition Mr. Donut Pokeball donut, we were all happy to take a short break. It tasted okay, but nothing we would get again, it really was just a $3 gimmick in hindsight. After we ate I decided that just the two of us would head over to the mall, Terra had been complaining of her pants not being warm enough during the trip, so we would take a very quick clothes shopping trip. Faced with the fact that Uniqlo is much more well stocked and affordable domestically than it is abroad (we have one in NOVA and it sucks), we end up there and are able to get her four pairs of thermal leggings and a skirt for under $40, then it was time to head back and equip ourselves for Arashiyama.
Dressed for the cold and with umbrellas in hand (just in case), we head to the train station. The train to Arashiyama station takes a mere 20 minutes to arrive, from there it was about another 20 minute walk to reach the Bamboo Forest. At this point I am comparing every step with our 2010 trip. Back then, we took one of the first morning trains, arrived in Arashiyama before ANYONE else (we saw one maintenance guy our entire stroll) and leisurely walked through rows of houses and back alleys to arrive at the Bamboo Forest. This time, I knew we attempting to visit during a once a year event, that social media had blown this destination out of the water and that it also promised to be one of the more breathtaking views of this vacation. I prepared myself (and us) for the crowds, but wow, the crowds. From the second we got off the train, there was a swath of people heading in the same direction. The tourism bureau must have been pushing this event hard. They had booths, flyers, brochures (in multiple languages), advertisements, banners and directions leading you straight to the illuminations walk. It was a little overwhelming, but sort of nice to know we wouldn’t have a chance to get lost! Following the crowd, we arrived at the entrance to the Bamboo Forest within the promised 20 minutes, even among the giant crowds, it was breathtaking. Not only was the walk illuminated with lanterns on the sides of the path, but they had colored lights pointed up the giant stalks of bamboo, deep enough into each grove that you were never blinded. It was still easy to get lost/lose yourself in awe of it all, even being surrounded by THOUSANDS of tourists and visitors. It was our first bad experience with people in the country (there would sadly be a few more to come), being pushed along, bumped into, walked in front of and into pictures constantly and it was STILL COLD. With our coats, a million people surrounding us and preparations, we were still cold.
Some of my favorite pictures of the trip were taken here. Pushing all of the bad aside, it was just breathtaking and one of the few times I was able to STOP, breath and take the experience in. If you ever have the chance to see the Kyoto (especially Arashiyama) illuminations, do it. Sadly, with the crowds and long walk, the tour around the Bamboo Forest was cut short (we never “emerged” out the other side of the loop). We decided to double-back the way we came shortly after visiting the half-way mark of the shrine, we were already 20-25 minutes in at this point during our slow stroll and we kept getting separated from Matt in the crowd. We still needed to eat dinner and were getting pretty darn cold. Hoping to sit down to get warm and eat something tasty, we were shocked to see only high end restaurants lining “tourist row” (we should have seen this coming, honestly). We did manage to duck into an odd food stall lined area next to a local train station (still outdoors sadly) to grab some delicious street food. Oh, the teriyaki, odango, takoyaki and other food here was divine (and warm!). After a short rest (still shivering in the cold, mind you), we continue to advance towards the bridge, as it was illuminated too. Instead of taking the time to enjoy it up close, walk across it and get some good shots we were forced by the circumstances to settle for a few far off views and then locate a taxi. Terra was DONE FOR. Cold, still a little hungry, tired from all the walking, and keeping her out well past 9PM was taking the toll and we both knew we would pay. We didn't get into a taxi and back to the train station until it was approaching 10PM, we knew what would come next... She fell asleep… on a 20 minute train ride. It was still a 10 minute walk back to the apartment once we arrived at Kyoto station, but somehow we got her to wake up enough to walk back. It was one long (but fun) night.
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