Japan and U.S. Domestic Travel Blog

Travel blog, starting with a trip to Japan March 20, 2010 through April 4, 2010 and continuing through both local and long-distance travel thereafter.

Thursday, September 12, 2019

Day 3 - Family Japan - "Dying Workshop and Ninja/Samurai Experience"

Day 3 (Japan date: December 16, 2018)

Waking up at a nearly normal time (6AM), I was surprised the jet leg wasn’t as bad as I remembered it being during our last trip.  Perhaps the exercising and proper diet prior to this trip were paying off? The tea and herbals were having an effect? Or maybe I am just more put together than I was in 2010?  Any way you look at it, I wasn’t going to argue.  I made a small breakfast made in our tiny kitchen (eggs, awesome Japanese white bread, sausages) and got ready for the day.  First on the agenda was our reservation at the traditional kyo-yuzen dyeing workshop called Marumasu-Nishimuraya at 9AM. I wasn’t 100% sure how we would get there and how long it would take, so we left with plenty of time to spare.

We arrived slightly early, around 8:45AM and were a bit confused, we saw a storefront and a very small shop from the street, but it was dark with no activity.  Luckily there was a bench, so we had a seat and waited.  I double-check my information and reservation during this time to ensure we are at the right location (it seemed we were).  At 9:05AM I started to get nervous, luckily a nice 20-something foreigner (I believe it turned out she was from Australia) popped out from the long alley next to the building we were in front of and showed us to the back entrance, where we were supposed to be (a much larger factory sort of building).  She explained that was just the storefront where they sold previously made goods and it turned out nearly everyone makes the same mistake we did, it was all good and we were quickly shown the ropes on how to pick out our project (choosing from fans, bags, scrolls, picture frames and more), stencils and finally how to apply the paint and complete the dyeing process.  It was simple, yet complex, just what I would expect from such an activity.

We really enjoyed and took our time here.  There were several workers that spoke at least some English, along with the bilingual lady that showed us how to use everything initially.  Additionally there were several other groups of Japanese crafters that entered and got enjoyment out of seeing Terra concentrate on her traditional Japanese craft.  I was able to have a short simple conversation with an older Japanese man, which I presumed to be the boss/owner of the establishment. He was mighty impressed at my attempt, so that amused me.  It was a very enjoyable experience.

During the process we carefully applied thin layers of paint through the stencils until all of our
pictures were complete. In the end we emerged with 3 very nice looking items (a scroll, a bag and a picture frame), only costing around 9,000 yen total for the experience, crafts and time.  It was well worth the 2 ½ hours spent here, highly recommended. Upon exiting the shop it was time to go towards the next destination, but I was surprised we were so close to a castle and grounds, I felt as though I should've known about it and if I had it would've been on the itinerary. Later research turned up that it was Nijo-jo Castle and I would have, in fact, had it on our list if I had known about it and how close we would be.  No time for it now though, so we hop on a train at the nearest station (Nijojo-mae Station) and disembark as close to the old Nintendo HQ as we could get. Matt regretted not taking a look at this old building during our first trip to Kyoto, so we weren’t about to make the same mistake again.

Being we were sitting most of the morning, it was time for a walk in the crisp air to see more of Kyoto. It was a gorgeous walk, one of the most memorable of the trip.  Going over canal bridges, seeing still blooming flowers and taking in the landscape around us.  I love the canal areas of Kyoto and fondly remember them from our first trip. but after about 45 minutes of walking, we arrive at the old Nintendo building.

Taking some obligatory photos (there was literally nothing else there), it was time to find and eat some lunch. For the life of me, I cannot remember where we stopped, but it was somewhere along the way. Since the first leg of our walk was so nice, it was decided to just continue in the direction of the next destination: The Samurai and Ninja Museum of Kyoto. Google told us it was under a mile/30 minutes to get there by foot, so walking seemed to be our chosen method for the day.

A little background on how we ended up here. Initially, I wanted to make a 2 hour trip to Iga during this vacation, which is basically an entire ninja village with a castle, ninja shows, museums and experiences.  However, after facing the truth that we wouldn’t make it there due to how long everything was actually taking, yet still successfully get everything else checked off our priorities list, I quickly backpedaled and did some early morning research into other options. I came across The Samurai and Ninja Museum in Kyoto, it was top in Google search results and panned out that we could make a reservation for the ninja experience at 3PM the next day, I concluded it was a good way to get the "Terra required" ninja training in without throwing an entire day out the window.  Flashing back now to our walk, along the route we start noticing cute little Pokemon banners hanging from the lamp posts, most of them with a countdown or arrows (you can barely see the one here in white). We look at each other all confused “is there a Pokemon Center in Kyoto?"  The only one my research ever found outside of Tokyo before this trip was in Osaka, so seeing banners in the middle of Kyoto was a surprise.  A few taps on the Google machine and it turned out the Pokemon Center of Kyoto was located less that half a KM away from our destination.  Well, didn't take long to find out where our night would end!

Upon arrival at the museum, I was a little concerned. It was located on the 3rd (and later, the 5th) floor of a winding shopping building, located inside a huge shopping district, not exactly what I had imagined. The front desk clerk also seemed a little disorganized and confused (for Japan, this was rare), but we were not the only foreign family visiting.  After the tour time started there must have been 6 families and 2 couples, all English speaking with us.  It started with a brief overview of Samurai history (down the hall seen here), though it was barely compelling enough to keep the kids engaged. It was a museum-style lecture, very informative, but nothing I would recommend to put kids through and it took up the first 30 minutes.


We were then treated to a samurai/sword demonstration by masters of the art (sorry, I don’t recall which style/discipline), which reengaged and woke the children back up.  After that, it was our turn, and little did I realize when I bought the ninja package, I bought it for all three of us and not just Terra.
That meant we were “forced” into ninja gear and got to throw ninja stars and practice blow darts too!  I do not regret this, but also have no intention of sharing the picture. It was fun to get dressed up and have contests on which of us was the worst at getting the throwing stars and darts to stick to the board. This portion probably lasted an additional 30 minutes before we gave up and eventually led upstairs to the samurai room.


Here we could tour at our own leisure some of the artifacts they had on display and the kids got to try on samurai outfits too, overall they had a blast and the freedom was refreshing.  Getting hungry (and late), I realized we had been here 2 hours at this point.  Trying to get it all wrapped up, we had one last thing to do: an origami throwing star. Finishing the craft and grabbing a few souvenirs we were finally ready to leave for dinner and the Pokemon Center! Another two thumbs up experience.  With little to no effort put into finding the place, I think it turned out to be fun and would recommend it. Just make sure you set enough time aside, as we were there a solid 2 1/2 hours, it was already 5:30PM and the Pokemon Center closed earlier, at 8PM, on Sundays so we headed straight there next.


We made our way into a giant mall Google led us to, following the map as we were unsure of exactly where this place was.  After deciphering we needed to head to the 4th floor (which was a kids floor, filled with $200 size 2 toddler dresses!) we found him.

Our first Pokemon Center of the trip and our first exposure to the famed Pokemon statues.  Turned out each center has its own mascot/Pikachu up front, Kyoto here is obviously Ho-oh. You will see more on our Pokemon Center ventures as this blog continues, but being the first, Kyoto holds a special place for me.  Also, see those Pikachu plushes in the background?  Yeah, those are Kyoto Center exclusives.  Something I would come to learn the hard way, each Center has an exclusive set of merchandise and it is all marked as such (in Japanese, with cute little images), they also mark sale and new merchandise.  During our 1 hour trip around the store, I come to realize they have an insane amount of really cool things, but also why they were in this location.  None of it was cheap!  Pens and Pencils at 400 yen each, stationary sets 2,000 yen, mugs 2,000 yen, plushes ranged from 1,000 yen (mini) to 6,000 yen (regular) and even 20,000 yen for large ones, basically you are in a Disney Store… it is all Disney prices and Disney quality.  It all turned out to be a little much, but we walk out with an assortment of really cool things and spent something like $200USD total.  Actually, not that bad for our first trip to a Pokemon Center with a 6 year old!  It was fun.

Being hungry and not wanting a debate over which food Terra would most likely accept and eat quickly, we end up at McDonald's for dinner.  I opt for just some fries and to hold off for a grocery store bento when we get back to the apartment. After grabbing this quick bit, we head back to the apartment via taxi, which turned out to only be about 5KM if you can straight-shot it (10 minutes via car vs 45 minutes trying to connect train stations or over an hour walking), we pay the 2,000 yen or so fare for the convenience to get Terra to bed at a decent time.  As what became my routine in Kyoto, I ran over to the mall/grocery store by myself to browse and get some food stuffs and return to the apartment with an assortment of goodies for the night and next morning. Oh, how I miss the discounted bento’s.  And never once, during this week stay, did I ever get that feeling of being watched, followed or in danger.  Going to a mall AND walking home ALONE in the dark in the U.S. is not something I would do.  In Kyoto?  Perfectly normal.  I keep my usual watchful eye out, but never once did I felt like I was in danger.

Tuesday, September 10, 2019

Day 2 - Family Japan - "Kyoto and the Railway Museum"


Day 2 (Japan date: December 15, 2018)
I started my day around 5:30AM after giving up at the third time being awake, Terra followed by 6AM and Matt at 6:30AM.  It was a gorgeous sunrise and instantly gave me energy, something felt so right being in that atmosphere. By this time we were hungry and also needed to repack bags in order to make it on our Shinkansen departing from Tokyo Station at 8:03AM, so we decided to check-out and head to the station early. Thinking we would at least stop at a kiosk along the way for food, we walked.  And walked.  And walked.  Until we were at the correct platform at 7:43AM (it took a bit longer than myself and Google thought).  As soon as I was about to leave my bags with Matt and head off to grab food, the train pulled up!  Curse Japan and their commuter systems being consistently on time or early. With so many bags, in we went.  Little did I realize we wouldn't be getting back off for food at all, and this was going to be a solid three hour train ride.  Luckily, within the first 30 minutes, a cart came by with sandwiches, but I was still hungry.  Hopefully food would come quickly once we arrived at Kyoto station.

The Shinkansen was a smooth and easy ride, as I remembered from 2010, I have never taken such a long commute so effortlessly before. Upon arrival in Kyoto Station, to my dismay, we headed straight to the AirBNB instead of stopping for food, it was an obvious choice with so many bags but I was still starving. At least we located the Machiya (traditional townhouse) with little issue and found it to be a solid 10 minute walk from the Kyoto Station platforms, which wasn't too bad. The landlord was still cleaning when we arrived, but assured us we could leave our bags and showed us the basics.  She was very kind and it was another effortless experience.  Having used AirBNB rentals for the majority of our 2010 trip, I didn't even hesitate to do the same this time around. 


Now bag-less and even hungrier we went on the search for food, I had hoped to return to the station and dine at the awesome tofu restaurant (from my memory of 2010). The station was as large as I remembered with over 12 floors of restaurants and shopping in the main complex alone, now decorated for Christmas, it was a site to behold in and of itself. However, we quickly learned Saturdays are very busy days for lunch everywhere, so we opted for the quicker food option this time after seeing the long wait to get in to the tofu restaurant.

Food was found in the way of Kaiten Zushi located within the station, a place called Kanazawa Maimom Sushi Kyoto at Station Porta. It was obviously fresh and the instant food was a great choice, but nothing "to write home about". 
After our bellies were full, we decided to head for Kyoto Railway Museum.  A taxi was our top choice as the trains and buses didn't get us very close and the trip of dropping luggage off at the apartment and then walking back the long way to the train station was already tiring.  We were dropped off at the entrance in about 10 minutes for 1,080 yen... totally worth it. Once inside, I realize comparing it to the railway museum in Baltimore was unfair and that is was much more like the Air and Space Udvar Hazy in Chantilly, based on the sheer amount and size of exhibits.  

They had both a train yard/outdoor area and an expansive indoor area. Arriving at 1:30PM, our only goal for the day was to leave by dinner time since we didn't want to eat there and to also pick up groceries for the coming days (especially non-existent-in-Japan-breakfast). That being said, I feel like we both took our time and didn't have enough time to see everything. You first enter at the outdoor portion where they had several late-model trains to walk into and an outdoor cafe inside one of them (where else?), which we didn't eat at. Thinking back, this outdoor portion might have even been free to the public. The actual entrance was past this in a large 3-story building, once inside we had to purchase tickets (1,200 yen each) and were handed a map and stamp book. The displays had limited English, but most of them were self-explanatory or had enough English to understand what they were. The actual browsing of exhibits (dioramas, videos, artifacts, etc) was probably more rushed than they would have been with English signage, so that is a point to keep in mind depending on what you look for in a museum visit.  I think they did have an English audio tour, but with a seven-year old, that was off the negotiation list this time. 

There were more than enough hands on experiences set up, with real workings of how the trains run, stay on the tracks, electrical displays, going inside of each model, replicas of the engineer controls and other things for both kids and adults to experiment with. The first floor had all of the train displays, enabling you to see them from most angles (stairs to go under them, open inside and stairs to even go above a few). The second floor had a huge model train display and the third had other kid-friendly working displays such as a model of an old train station, complete with real (fake/free) tickets and working entry gates.

Once we emerged out the back of the building and into the actual train yard, we opted to pay the few hundred yen for steam locomotive tickets (a 15 minute “back and forth” joy ride).  We (myself and Terra) also got our first taste of stamp collecting, where you hit up different stations located within the tourism spot to "stamp" a booklet you usually receive with your entry ticket, which is a very famous activity in Japan for these destinations.  There would be many stamps to come in my near future. We started to get a little tired and hungry and decided to leave at 4PM after a brief visit to the souvenir shop. Trying to save the taxi money, the Google told us it was only about a mile and would take approximately 30 minutes to walk back to the mall, conveniently located across from where we were staying, so we took the gamble and went with it. 




It indeed only took 30 minutes to arrive and the walk through Kyoto neighborhoods was pleasant. The mall was huge to U.S. standards, towering at 6 floors in the main wing and an additional 4 floors on the second wing (of which, the entire first floor was an honest to goodness Toys R Us). I was pleased to see a grocery store occupying about a quarter of the first floor, and we discovered the top floor was a standard "food court" full of eateries and a real (even though small to their standards) Namco arcade.  Myself and Terra got the Ramen and Matt opted for Bibimbap (seen above), sitting down in a food court I continued to make observations of a more modern Japanese society than experienced in 2010.  Cell phones, children and digital forth comings were everywhere.  It was a relaxed and very familiar atmosphere overall.  Though there was still little English to be had, communicating in a whole presented no issues thus far. 
Before heading out for the night, I couldn’t help but get our first exposure to an arcade, full of UFO catchers, Taiko drums and other fun hands on machines. I won my first prize within a few attempts (a Kirby blanket), we played Mario Kart and had it out for a few songs on the Taiko drums.  We took a quick stop at the grocery store before wrapping it up for the night (the first place to be bit overwhelming), eventually getting what we needed and headed back to our house to settle in.  I was super satisfied with the house as it was located less than a 10 minute walk from central Kyoto station and within a 3 minute walk from the correct exit of the mall (took me awhile to figure this one out, however). The entire atmosphere here was something I could get used to, seeing groups of teenagers out by themselves, kids enjoying shopping and an overall atmosphere of safely walking and being part of a larger social construct was nice.  I was ready to have a good time, and determined to make it a relaxing one.





Thursday, September 5, 2019

Day 1 - Family Japan - "Arrival and Tokyo Tower"

Day 1 (December 13/14, 2018 with time jump)

The adventure begins! The day began at home with last minute packing and some slight panicking.  We left for the airport at 8:30AM and arrived shortly before 9AM.  Good thing too as the security lines were long, without enough lanes open.  We managed through it all, grabbed breakfast and were at our gate by 11:15AM for the 11:45AM boarding call.  We opted to pay extra from the nonstop flight (the same timing as the flight we took in 2010). It was an ANA flight, but serviced by United, which meant a lot apparently.

Flight boarded and took off without issue.  Within an hour or so, we realized the grave mistake of not bringing food with us.  When we took this same flight, but fully serviced by ANA, they had meal order options (Japanese and American), snacks and beverages. However, this time around we were informed there would only be one meal service about 2 hours into the flight, one free snack (spicy Asian mix) and another meal/snack combo 2 hours before landing.  There was no opportunity to order anything extra and no real "kid-friendly" options. During the flight we also ended up receiving a very cold sandwich somewhere in between, but the calorie count for a 14 hours flight must have been in the 500-600 range total, with all of the food qualifying as mediocre, Terra ate even less than we did. At least we had plenty of entertainment options with the laptop (Netflix downloads included), 2 Switches, 3DS, Tablets and more.  Terra might have slept 2 or 3 hours total and we each took one or two cat naps.  Overall, the flight was one of the smoothest I've ever experience with minimal turbulence and behavior, given the situation, was good.  It was an impressive display on one of the most difficult parts of the trip.

Upon arrival, there was (of course) more lines and waiting, but everything went off without a hitch. Getting through immigration, baggage, customs and then finding an ATM to grab some yen and hitting up the JR East exchange office to get our passes were next on the agenda. Getting our Narita express tickets to get to Tokyo and the Shinkansen tickets for the following day was a breeze.

What ensued from there was a semi-chaotic scramble to the Narita express, back off after another Terra cat nap, off and through our first stop at Tokyo Station DURING RUSH HOUR, which is HEAVILY under construction right now (I assume for the Olympic renovations) and on to the Yamanote line to get to Shimbashi, the nearest stop to our hotel for the night.  Oh, little did I realize how INSANE Shimbashi would be during Friday night rush hour (it was 6:45PM local at this point).  If the station was crazy, outside was slightly short of insane (Izakaya, "hotels" and host clubs galore) and it was pretty cold at 40F or so.  We had 2 large suitcases, one small and one backpack roller at this point, which added to the chaos.  Oh, how I wish we could travel with less luggage.

A "quick" 10 minute walk (only almost getting hit by cars twice!) and we arrive at Park Hotel Tokyo.  I found out while booking our airline tickets, that it actually makes the entire trip cheaper to bundle a hotel with them (even for only one of the twenty nights!) and this was a top rated location, making it an obvious choice. The service lady caught us getting off the elevator and IMMEDIATELY assisted.  Service in Japan never ceases to amaze me and the fact that they aren't after tip money is always astounding as well.  She grabbed our luggage, walked us up to check-in and then to our room all while speaking decent English.  This service was furthered as when the toilet was clogged, they had someone in our room within 5 minutes, a plumber accompanied by a bellhop, and fixed it quickly with a smile on their face.  A similar problem in a U.S. hotel would have taken forever and "those looks" from a maintenance man that might finally arrive to "maybe" fix the issue (I know, it's happened before). I was immediately happy that we paid for the upgraded "Tokyo Tower" view room as once Terra saw it, we knew we'd have the energy to head back out and on to our first real vacation experience.


We grab a taxi waiting outside the hotel, 780 yen and one mile of driving later we were at the foot of the tower in less than 10 minutes.  It was exactly as expected as "another tower view", the Christmas light displays (in Tokyo Tower orange and white) were cool, the night view with clear weather was nice and there was a pretty standard shopping mall and food court inside.  We decided not to go to the very top deck as it was under construction and an additional cost. The "One Piece" area of tower was also an additional cost, and since none of us were huge fans of the series, we opted out of a visit inside that section as well.

The first souvenirs were purchased at the top floor gift shop and then we headed to the food court for some standard Japanese "fast food".  Entering this floor, we were already greeted by Japanese commercialism (anime figures for sale at the shops and very Japanese displays as seen here)! Terra grabbed a kids burger meal at MOS burger while Matt and myself opted for Ramen and Katsu curry from one of the other food court restaurants. I immediately noticed surrounding us (on a Friday night, which we were too foggy headed to remember at the time) were a lot of kids!  During our 2010 trip, I swear we might have only seen two or three kids total.  Maybe it was the change in circumstances (having a kid now myself) or simply the location and date, but I was surprised.

Most of the tower was closing by the time we finished eating, so it was time to head back and try to get some sleep.  We got Shinkansen tickets for 8AM the next day, which in hindsight might have been a bit overzealous. We had a few failed attempts at hailing a taxi (both manually and by using an app for the first time) and ended up walking the mile back to the hotel in the chilly windy weather.  A few quick showers, a makeshift sleeping area on the floor for Terra and we were all done for the night. Sleep was much easier than I remember it being on our first trip in 2010, I think Terra racked up 6 or 7 hours straight, Matt got at least 7 hours and I was at about 6 hours of broken sleep after waking up twice for no reason.  So far, we were off to a great start.

Tuesday, September 3, 2019

Day 15 - Adventure through Japan "Home"

Incomplete Entry-

Part I:  Getting out of Japan

Part II: The flight

Part III: Time travel

Day 14 - Adventure through Japan "Nakano and Akihabara"

Incomplete Entry-

Part I: Nakano and Breakfast

Part II: Akihabara

Part III: Nakano (take II)

Part IV: Fun fun packing

This morning, Donnie, Jason and I tried going to a Kabuki play, but they were sold out for the earlier 11:00 show, and the line was about 2 hrs for standing room only at the 1:30 show. Seems you need someone in Japan to reserve tickets for you as there is no way to do so online or over the phone.

So the day really started at Yasukuni Shrine, which commemorates Japan's war dead. Some controversy surrounds the place, as some guilty of war crimes are enshrined here among the others; other Asian nations voice objections when Japanese prime ministers visit it. The shrine grounds offered some good pictures and just like in Ueno Park there was a festival going on to celebrate the cherry blossoms, so there were pretty big crowds.

After Yasukuni, the the rest of the day was spent shopping for souvenirs. The group met at Akihabara to finish off whatever stores we didn't get to yesterday. We wrapped up the day at the "mall" in Nakano, the place Jacky had shown us a few days ago. This time we were there a little earlier, so some of the 4th floor stores were still open, which was awesome - these stores had older stuff from as far back as the 20's and 30's. It was exactly the type of things you'd find in an American antiques place - old magazines and toys, advertisements, cameras and watches, and the like.

The only thing left to do now is sort everything and pack it away for the long trip home.